Northwest... Pacific Northwest

It seemed like forever away when I booked my ticket to Seattle back in December, but just as I knew they would, the last few days flew by. Suddenly I didn't have enough time to finish the sweater I was knitting or the books I was reading. I didn't pack a single thing until the night before I left. I don't remember being such a procrastinator in the past. So it goes.

Security at O'Hare wasn't bad. It always happens that way when you get there early; it's the times you're running late that the TSA takes their sweet time nosing through your things and looking at you like certainly you must be hiding something.

Boarding went smoothly, but we wound up sitting in the plane at the gate for what must have been almost an hour. At least the seats were comfy. Four and a half hours is nothing compared to the 15 or so it took me to get to Delhi a few months ago, but it's still a considerable chunk out of one's day. The cool part is I was flying west, so I managed to not lose too many hours on the clock.

We got some pho at a Vietnamese restaurant near our hotel. After our meal, the owner asked how our food was, told us it was nice to meet us, and gave Brij and me each a hug. Talk about a warm welcome to Seattle.

Obviously I had to pick up some Starbucks since I was in the place where it originated. It's pretty much the same as anywhere else.

My first two days in a city known for its rain, the weather was bright and sunny. And warm. I mean REALLY warm. Considering I'd escaped the polar vortex that's been ravaging the Midwest for however many weeks now, 50 degrees in Seattle felt like summer vacation.

Anyway, across the street from our place was this restaurant:

On Friday we set off in search of a vegan sandwich restaurant called Plum, which Brij had gotten a Groupon for. After misreading a map and subsequently walking all around Seattle, we finally found it.

Following that, we wandered across the street to the Space Needle and, being tourists, decided we ought to check it out. Twenty bucks a person for a pretty sweet view of the city is not a bad deal. (More pix will follow when I can get them off my phone):

Saturday the plan was to hang out in Seattle and head up to Vancouver in the evening. My good friend Cory, who has recently made a move to the west coast, met us in Seattle and the three of us got some delicious Thai food at In The Bowl which, to our surprise and delight, happened to be having a 50% off promotion in observance of their anniversary. We all recommend you go there if you're in the area.

After food and some deliberation, we made our way to Belltown Billiards for some pool. I guess all those hours of Wii Pool paid off because I managed to win a couple of games. Woot. :)

Sorry Cory, I think my action shots of you are still on my phone...

None of us managed to remember that it was Saturday night by the time we were done, so there was no parking to be had, all the restaurants looked busy.. plus it was raining pretty hard at this point and we had no idea where to go anyway. So we parted ways and Brij and I headed up to Vancouver.

The border crossing guard asked us a bunch of questions like how long I was staying and when I was expected back at work, where had I come from, and when was the last time I was in Canada? When it became clear that he was going to let us through I asked for a stamp for my passport and he informed us that he'd forgotten his stamp that day, and we'd have to park and go inside and did we really want it that bad? Yes, yes we did.

So long story short, I made it to Canada and I've got a stamp to prove it.


Right now we're chilling at Brij's friend Justin's house, waiting to go snowboarding, and they are bugging me to get off the computer so we can play something called Oculus. I guess that's going to happen.

So tonight's agenda: coffee, snowboarding, return to suburban Vancouver. Possible Indian food to follow.

I've also established that my phone doesn't work here, so leave me comments, send an email, or message me on FB if you need to get in touch with me.

Catch you later, eh.

Go with what you know

Well, friends, this is it. Yesterday I spent the entire day running around McLeod Ganj spending time with my remaining friends; all the other foreign teachers at Tibet Charity have taken off already. It was a busy day, but a fun one.

I went for lunch with Kalden and Mike at Tibet Kitchen. I figured I should have Tibetan food for my last meal in the home of HH.

Mmm, thenthuk.

Then we went down to Nick's for dessert. Nick's has the best dessert in town.

And apparently their cappuccinos are good, too!

Me in my cool new hat Kalden gave me (it really goes with the chupa, doesn't it?), with Mike on Temple Road. XD

I had tea with the managers at Villa Paradiso and visited a few other friends before packing the last of my things and heading downstairs. Anil made me some gobi parantha for the road. While I waited on that, I looked out over Dharamsala one last time from the balcony. It's a view I'm going to miss.

The taxi that the guys at New Varuni called for me took me up to the bus station where I was met by a bunch of my students, Kalden, and Mike.

Yup... more katas!!

After half an hour of teary goodbyes and lots of hugs -- how can you not get a little misty-eyed when your students tell you things like "I will never forget your kindness"?? -- I got situated on the bus ("a very nice Volvo," just like when I first came here) and away we went.

If you look reeeeeeeeeeal close you can see me in my turquoise blouse in the middle of the bus.

And so the 12ish-hour bus ride to Delhi was underway. This time I was seated next to a youngish jewelry salesman named Dhaval who was quite friendly. I popped a couple motion sickness pills but still had to lay back, close my eyes, and concentrate on not vomiting for the first 4 hours or so. They even handed out little plastic bags, I assume for this purpose. I love the mountains, but I do not love driving in the mountains.

We stopped for dinner at a nice haveli; I didn't eat because it didn't seem worth it. I was sure I wouldn't have been able to keep it down.

When we reached Delhi, the bus drivers wanted to drop everyone off at the Kashmere Gate. Apparently it's where most tourists go, and as far as I can tell it's more or less a hub for travel. Luckily, there was one Tibetan guy on board who also wanted to go to Majnu Ka Tila, the Tibetan colony, so we stuck together and they took us there. He helped me off the bus with my things and down to AMA Hotel, where I stayed way back in July when I first arrived in India.

My plan was to stay in a neighborhood called Paharganj, per Brij's recommendation, but I was unfamiliar with the area, the hotel guy there wasn't the best about giving me information over the phone, and I had gotten dropped off IN DELHI at 4:30am. I was by myself at this point and not comfortable with hopping into any random taxi. So I went to AMA and the hotelier there was very friendly even though I'd woken him up at a ridiculous hour. It took us a little while because of the language barrier -- his English was fairly decent, but my Hindi is limited and my Tibetan is practically nonexistent -- but eventually I decided I'd just take the one room they had left and they'd book a taxi to the airport for this evening for me.

It was such a relief to get to a familiar place. If you're ever in Delhi, this is a nice place to stay. They have a really excellent restaurant downstairs, too!

I went out into Delhi via rickshaw to grab the last couple of Indian things (as opposed to Tibetan ones) I needed before coming home. I didn't even freak out! It was surprisingly unstressful during daylight hours. There are about a zillion people, sure, but I guess I'm more or less used to it now. It's not so bad.

One thing I've found that has made traveling solo much more bearable is that most people are helpful if you just ask. It's also been a tremendous help going places with people who know them the first time, and then returning later on my own. In this case, I was in Majnu ka Tila with Kalden and Palsang a few months ago, so now I don't feel so anxious about being back here. I don't particularly want to run around Delhi on my own for an extended period of time, but in this particular area I feel fine. The same thing with the Rajasthan trip: I passed through Pathankot on the train with Brij on the way down, and so when I went back on my own, I kind of knew what to expect. If I hadn't, then the whole train-breaking-down-in-the-middle-of-the-night thing would have really done a number on me.

I explained to the proprietors at AMA that I'd been here and I trusted them to take care of me, and they have been more than helpful. (I gotta write a bunch of TripAdvisor reviews.... maybe I'll do that at the airport!)

So now I'm hanging out in my hotel room, responding to "hey, just want to know how the trip is going" messages. Once I hit "publish" on this thing I'm going to take a shower, get dressed, grab a bite to eat at the restaurant downstairs, and make sure my luggage is arranged the way I want it. The taxi picks me up to take me to the airport in just over 2 hours... It should take about an hour to get there, and my itinerary requests that I report at least 3 hours prior to my flight time, so I should be fine. I'd rather be safe than sorry! Then I guess I'll see if I can find some airport wi-fi or sit down with a book and wait to board the long, long flight home. Altogether it's a little over 19 hours travel time, including the brief layover in Newark (only 1.5 hours this time). And with that... I'll be on my way back to American soil!

For all its shortcomings, India has endeared itself to me. I think I'll come back sometime. Who wants to join me?

The first step is the hardest

I totally just ordered breakfast in Hindi (and yes, I got what I wanted). He even asked me "How long have you been speaking Hindi? Your pronunciation is pretty good."

Lol.

I think I might come to eat here more often. That sounds like a good trade-off, right? He gets business, I get Hindi practice?

~~ In case you're curious, I spent a while this morning drilling the following:
Mujhko dijiye do ubbalne ande, aur namak aur kali mirch... Kya aap ke pas haraa chai? Thik hai, thank you. :)

As it turns out, there are a good number of English words that Hindi speakers throw in to the mix; in this case, I was told to simply say "boiled" instead of "ubbalne" for my eggs. Also, the Hindi "dhanyavad" seems to be more formal and less used than simply saying "thank you." Cool, eh?

A walk in the woods and back to D'sala

For our final full day in Manali we wound up yet again at Dylan's.

We did try the cookies, and they were in fact delicious.

See that guy in the bottom right corner of the second photo? He's a crew dude for Cirque du Soleil. He and his gf/travel partner are from Montreal. We had a fun little conversation with them about the awesomeness of the Cirque and how cool it must be to travel all over the world with it.

The proprietor of the shop is the guy standing behind him making someone's beverage. At one point he asked about my tattoo, so that led to a discussion about knitting and how everyone in the tribe he's from learns to knit. We talked about crops (apparently they grow some of the only peas in India) and knitting and all kinds of things. He said he'd try to find a place in Manali for me to buy good, local yarn; it wasn't very helpful, though, because we didn't have much more time in town. I was surprised at how difficult it had been to find locally-produced yarn in the Himalayan mountains.

We decided to go for a walk to Vashisht, a little town with temples and hot springs. Here are some scenery pix for you...

We eventually reached the hot springs (I found a little shop with some supposedly local yarn along the way; it looks handspun and it's definitely in need of a good washing. What should I make? A shawl, maybe?) and saw some more intricate carvings on the sides of the temples there.

Hot water straight from the springs.

From there we took a tuk-tuk back to Manali and had a nice, relaxing evening.

We walked back from New Manali to Old Manali through the park.

Coke made with real sugar, and a quesadilla that was surprisingly good.

We got foot/leg and shoulder massages!

The next morning it was time to go, so we bade farewell to one last Manali sunrise.

Bye bye, Manali. Perhaps we'll meet again.

And then it was around 7 hours to get back to Dharamsala. There weren't enough people to fill the minibus we were originally scheduled to take, so we got to ride in a taxi for a fraction of the usual taxi price. Along the way we stopped for lunch at a hotel where I saw this guy making fresh naan & roti.

Yum!

With that, I am back in Dharamsala for a while. Brij and I spent the evening watching soccer, eating momos, and trading movies & music. So far today all I've done is slept in, written this blog, and half-assedly helped plan a trip to Rajasthan (the others are doing most of the work). Oh, and looking at potential jobs for when I get back. Does anyone know of a place that will need someone in, say, January? The catering biz gets a little slow after the holidays and I'm going to need some kind of income to pick up the slack, especially since I'm using up my savings while I'm here in India. It's alright, though.........

Manali, city of dance music!

Ah, it's nice to be someplace new. As much as I like McLeod Ganj in general, after spending two months there I was ready for a change. It's a nice little town but it's exactly that: a little town. I live in a little town in the US, I don't need to spend my entire time in India in a little town as well.

I know I've only been here a few hours, but my first impression of Manali is a positive one. We are staying in “Old Manali” because apparently it's nicer than “the rest of Manali.” We walk down the street and hear dance music playing in various clubs and cafes, there are all new items in the shops lining the roads, and the overall vibe is fresh and somewhat younger. McLeod Ganj has that sort of traditional Indo-Tibetan/dirty hippie vibe. It's not bad, but like I said... I was ready for a change. I danced my way through Old Manali this evening on our short little excursion and again as we came back from dinner. I made a couple of new friends already, too, so that's cool. I'd only been in town for about 3 hours and someone asked me out to lunch... all I have to say is lol. It's fun.

So anyway, the trip began this morning in Rewalsar, since that's where we wound up at the end of the first leg of the trip. We ate at one of the local cafes where I opted to drink my coffee sans sugar because it looked like this:

Oh look, a friend!

We trekked up to the temple (sort of... we drove most of the way and hiked the last couple of kilometers).

My snow lion impression.

There's a footprint that was supposedly left by Pema-whats-his-name himself. We had to do a bit of hiking to get there. You can always tell when you enter a Tibetan area by the sudden profusion of prayer flags.

This old Tibetan monk was asking for donations to offset his medical costs, because he has diabetes. I gave him a few rupees.

In return he gave me this bracelet and a hearty thank you.

Now THAT's a cave. I did not go in.

Nom nom nom...

There are so many red dahlias here... <3

Yup, I guess the foot print's that way.

Oh, there it is. On the wall.

We checked out the cave he did some meditating in, which now contains a number of statues and altars. It was cool without being too claustrophobic.

Gill trying to decipher the Tibetan sign.

Just for reference, that photo of HH is an 8x10.

Then it was back into the taxi for a few more hours. We stopped at a shawl emporium in Kullu (there are signs for shawl places every fifteen feet for miles on either side of the town... I would have taken more photos but we were moving too fast) where we could watch the weavers work. Obviously I had a good time there.

And then, at last... Manali!

The hotel we decided to stay in reminds me of the Timber Wolf Inn where I once stayed in Wisconsin Dells, which is a fond memory so the association is not unwelcome. The scenery's a little different, though...

No mountains like this in Wisconsin that I'm aware of!

It's colder here. You can tell by the way the doggles are snuggled up.

Oh yeah. We saw a yak.