This morning I woke up in my new room and decided it was cozy. I
did some laundry because it was gloriously sunny outside; I think the
monsoon season is in fact on its way out. This is exciting news
indeed -- the promise of dry clothing and bedding is near!
My new residence, Pause Dwelling, has these great big communal
balconies on each floor that also have clotheslines that we can use.
Since Brij and I are currently the only occupants on the 3rd floor,
we get to spread out basically as much as we'll allow each other.
This is especially fantastic because I am still trying to get out of
the mindset of not doing laundry until I have a full load -- a great
idea back home so I save water, but completely irrelevant here since
washing machines exist only at the fanciest of laundry service
places, and it's much cheaper to buy some powdered detergent and use
the bucket that's provided with the room -- and so at any given time
I've got a fair amount of clothing that needs to be cleaned. I
managed to wash a few of my favorite items and find spots for them in
the sun. As I was doing this Ricky, one of the guys who seems to be
in charge around here, told me that we still needed to do my check-in
paperwork and could I bring a copy of my passport sometime soon,
please?
I told him I'd see if I had one in my room, as I had made a few
copies earlier in the trip because I was informed by others who had
traveled abroad that this would be a good idea (thanks, Jillian and
Cory). Sure enough I had one and so I followed Ricky downstairs to
the office where he took out a huge ledger and invited me to have a
seat at the nearby padded bench. I had forgotten that everything in
India takes a while; it's not just a matter of "let me look at
your license, how will you be paying for that? *click click click*
Here's your room key" like it is in the US. In India things are
done by hand. Here it isn't uncommon for shop proprietors and the
like to invite their customers to have a seat, and I've found that
it's usually a good idea to take them up on the offer because it's
their way of telling you you'll be there a while.
Ricky, an Indian guy who looks to be more or less my age, set to
writing my information in the book. After a while one of the older
men who works here came out and offered me some tea -- it's all
called "chai" here, and none of it tastes like the chai we
have in the States; I'm pretty sure it's black tea with milk and
sugar in it -- which I accepted since by this point I'd been hanging
around for a good fifteen minutes longer than I'd anticipated and I
figured why not? Ricky finished getting me in the system, as it were,
and asked me about home. Do I have family in the United States? Yes,
my parents and one sister. Do I live with them? I live with my dad.
Is my sister older or younger? She's a few years younger. She lives
with her boyfriend... actually, her fiance, they're getting married.
This led to a discussion about weddings in which we found that
people tend to spend an awful lot of money on them both in the US and
in India, but in India everything is of course cheaper by default. He
suggested with a wry smile that maybe they should have their wedding
in India to save some money -- nevermind the fact that plane tickets
are not cheap by any means. (But hey Lon and Dan, maybe it's worth
looking into...?) ;)
He asked me if Obama was popular in the United States and I told
him what I have objectively noticed, that his popularity has been
falling the last few years. We talked about how politics in general
doesn't benefit the average person and how we'd just as soon have
nothing to do with it. I told him how life is not easy in the US even
though the standard of living is very high. He told me that in India
there are many people who don't have much, but they also don't owe
much. It's not like in the west where there is always someone -- a
bank, the government -- coming after you for money. He told me that
people who live in villages don't have as much access to education,
for example, but they also are largely farmers and craftsmen who
support themselves and each other, and they don't need to rely on the
government for as much. This in and of itself appeals to me.
Obviously there are drawbacks to this lifestyle, such as the
relinquishment of certain comforts and luxuries (like education,
unless you find a way to tackle that point), but it's certainly
something that might be worth considering.
An hour and a cup of chai later, and after a cheerful promise to
trade English practice for Hindi lessons, I told Ricky I was going to
let him get to his work and I'd hit up the ATM so I could pay him for
the room. "It's no problem," he said in the easy way that
most Indians tend to. No one ever seems to be in a rush here. He had
asked if I'd been to Dharamkot for pizza yet; I have not, but
everyone keeps telling me I have to go because it's amazing. When I
suggested that we go sometime he asked my schedule; when I asked for
his to see what times might coincide he smiled and said that he could
go pretty much whenever. Around here if you want to leave for a while
you leave for a while, as long as there is someone to cover for you.
It's not like other places where you must stay at your post until
your shift is over, there is no one micromanaging, and as long as
everything gets done, everyone is happy. It's much more laid back,
according to him, and I must say that my observations support this.
Thankfully, Brij was home when it started to rain early this
afternoon, and he moved my laundry to a dry area since I wasn't back
yet. Later, as I sat here on the balcony enjoying the rain, typing up
this post, Ricky happened by and struck up a conversation, and then
offered me tea. I already feel like I'm becoming part of a small
community in my new Dwelling. I think I'm going to enjoy living here.
I went out for lunch today and ran into a few friends: Tashi,
Tashi, Alexandra from London, Rico from Colorado, Sonam, and Sertso;
you might remember them from
sushi a few posts back. Tashi the monk
mentioned that there was going to be a show of traditional Tibetan
song, dance, and drama at TIPA tonight, the Tibetan Institute for the
Performing Arts. The Tashis, Alex, and I were the only ones who wound
up going.
It was pretty awesome.
The dances involved a lot of stomping, brightly colored costumes,
and cool hats, and the content revolved largely around the everyday
lives of the average Tibetan: farming. One dance even had people
dressed up in yak costumes. The guy sitting next to me asked if I
could understand the Tibetan. Of course I said no, but I was enjoying
it anyway. He proceeded to translate much of the rest of the show for
me, which was a big help during the two acting pieces at the end.
They both revolved around the prompt “the importance of preserving
the Tibetan language.”
The first was a drama that included a surprisingly convincing
depiction of both a fight between Chinese police and students, and
later a self-immolation.
The second was a comedy that opened with a great scene of modern
McLeod Ganj. I felt like an insider since I actually recognized what
was going on even if I couldn't understand the language.
Now we're sitting back at the Clay Oven where Alex couldn't
believe they were actually playing Blink-182. I informed her of the
amazing music selection this place has, and now we are having some
cheesecake, and Diamonds by Rihanna is on the radio and I really,
really wish I had a hula
hoop.